Three years on from the soulless Euros, played amid sparse crowds and restricted travel due to coronavirus restrictions, Germany is hosting a football festival at Euro 2024 as fans from across the continent take over the country.
The Dutch have hopped their way through Hamburg, a mass of Turkish fans descended on Dortmund and the Tartan Army took over Munich, Cologne and Stuttgart to win many more friends than Scotland managed points.
In spite of travel chaos that has dogged train routes and journeys to and from stadiums, most notably for England’s opener against Serbia in Gelsenkirchen, the fans have so far been the stars of the show as the big names have struggled to deliver on the field.
Even frequent downpours have not spoiled the party. Turkey’s 3-1 win over Georgia played in monsoon-like conditions produced one of the most memorable atmospheres and games of the group stage.
Germany’s positioning at the heart of the continent makes it the perfect host. Eight of the 24 countries competing share a land border and as Europe’s largest economy it is also home to huge expat populations from many others.
But Euro 2024 is also a throwback for many fans to what major tournaments used to be — a fun-filled few weeks free from concerns about geopolitics.
Hosts of the 2018 World Cup Russia are banned from this Euros due to the invasion of Ukraine.
Two years ago the eyes of the world turned on Qatar with questions over the conditions experienced by migrant workers in building the infrastructure needed for the tiny Gulf nation to host the tournament.
Thanks to FIFA’s expansion of the competition to 48 teams, future World Cups are set to take place over vast distances.
In two years’ time the USA, Mexico and Canada will combine to play host, before the 2030 World Cup will be spread across Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay, Spain, Portugal and Morocco.
“Seeing fans of every nation mixing together, singing in the squares and watching the games in bars is what a tournament should be about. Everyone feels part of it, all are welcome,” said Thomas Concannon from the Football Supporters Association.
Germany’s second ‘summer fairytale’
The carnival atmosphere is also helping inspire a competitive tournament.
Only in four of the 36 group games has there been a three-goal or more margin of victory.
“In this tournament you’ve now got incredible support for all the teams in the stadiums as well, which is a little different to the last two tournaments,” said England manager Gareth Southgate in explaining his side’s struggles compared to recent years.
Incidents of trouble have even been few and far between. Albania’s Mirlind Daku was banned for two matches and the Albanian federation fined after he joined in anti-Serb chants following a 2-2 draw with Croatia in the only major flashpoint so far.
Instead, Germany’s hope for a second ‘sommermarchen’ (summer fairytale) following the scenes at the 2006 World Cup have come to pass with capacity having to be expanded at the Munich fan zone for the hosts last 16 showdown against Denmark on Saturday.
Even a broken hand suffered by one German fan from a shot by the hosts’ brutish centre-forward Niclas Fuellkrug before the tournament’s opening match failed to dent national pride.
“I sang along to the anthem on the stretcher,” said the unfortunate supporter Kai Flathmann.
“I didn’t know whether to laugh or cry: I unfortunately had to give up my dream of watching the opening match. But when do you ever get your hand broken by Fuelle?”
Sadly for eight teams the sights of flag waving and sounds of car horns tooting in celebration long into the night across the country is over.
“The atmosphere was great and that’s why we want to stay in the tournament, to enjoy playing in this atmosphere as long as we can,” said Czech coach Ivan Hasek, whose side were one of those to bow out.
For others, the party has just begun with an enticing set of last 16 fixtures kicking off on Saturday.